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White lip feeding problems
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by coivis1 on July 5, 2007
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The 24'th of June I posted a thread titled "white lip feeding problems"
I'm still battling. My snake is not eating. Please help. I've tried almost everything. The only thing I havent tried is scenting with frogs (winter over here so I cant find any)
Please guys, help a desperate man
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by Cro on July 5, 2007
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Francois, the advise you were given in the previous thread is very good. Have you tried all of the feeding techniques that folks here suggested ?
Also, I wonder just how warm you are keeping the snake?
It could be possible that you are keeping him a bit too cool. Let us know the day / night temperatures, and keep on trying the techniques suggested.
If the snake gets really thin, you might have to force feed it again, just to get some nutrition in it, however, as Rob stated, that can cause more harm than good, so I would reserve that as a last resort. If you do resort to force feeding, I would use a small lizard or pink.
Best Regards JohnZ
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by Cro on July 5, 2007
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Francois, you might want to increase the temperatures of the cage just a small amount to raise the metabolism of the snake slightly. This often can stimulate feeding. Just make sure the snake is well hydrated with fresh water to drink and misting of the cage. I often keep the misting bottle on top of the cage so that the water in it is warmed to the temperature inside of the cage. This helps prevent temperature shock from water that could be too cool.
I would try 29 C during the day, and 26 C during the night until the snake is eating well. Then you could go back to the lower temperatures you are now using. My main concern is that the night time temperature might be a bit on the cool side for a snake that is not feeding.
Hope this helps. Keep us informed on the progress.
Best Regards JohnZ
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by petra on July 5, 2007
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Oh, I hate to disagree with you John. But I think it is not eating because it is too hot. Tree vipers are used to a little cooler temps. I used to keep them and when we had A/C problems in the summer I couldn't keep the temps the way I normally did. At 80F they stopped feeding. And refused to eat until I got the temps down back to 75. Basking spot of 80-82F is fine but I can bet they will never use it. The night temps should be at 70 to 72F.
Petra
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by Cro on July 5, 2007
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You could try both techniques for a few days and see if one or the other works. We know that the snake does not feed at the temperatures that it is at now. Some snakes do benefit and feed well at cooler temperatures, however, I have had good results with some problem feeders at times by kicking up the temperatures just a bit, and then after they are feeding again, lowering the temperatures. Give both a try, and see which works for this snake. Good Luck.
Best Regards JohnZ
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by Rob_Carmichael on July 5, 2007
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I agree with John wholeheartedly. We oftentimes go by what the "book" says in terms of optimal temp levels. We assume that montane species prefer cooler temperatures, however, we based that on very little solid observational data (perhaps these animals spend copious amounts of time thermalregulating in warm zones of these areas).
We had a large batch of albolabris born a couple of years ago and experienced many feeding challenges. By simply providing a much warmer (compared to what many people recommended) basking spot while still providing cool areas. With this simple improvement, we saw dramatic differences. So, that's just my .02 on the subject....don't always believe what you read, provide a wide variety of thermal gradients when in doubt, and just keep trying.
Rob Carmichael, Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by petra on July 5, 2007
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Guys, you may very well be right about the temps. I haven't had a lot of them - just one pair. It was just my own observation. Anytime our house got too hot they refused feeding. They may have been just odd snakes. :)
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by FLVenom911 on July 5, 2007
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If the C. albolabris still refuses to eat, and you have tried lizards and frogs to no avail, I would force feed the animal until it kicks in on it's own. The longer you wait, the quicker it will lose fat and deteriorate quickly . I have done this successfully with stubborn neonate Daboia russelli siamensis, Deinagkistrodon acutus, Bothrops asper, Bothrops atrox, Sistrurus miliarius barbouri, Naja naja, and Naja melanoleuca. The animals that I force fed would usually kick in in about a month, except the Deinagkistrodon acutus which would feed on their own after about six months.
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RE: White lip feeding problems
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by EPARR1 on July 5, 2007
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I bought a pair of White lipped vipers at the last Hamburg show. I also had the same trouble after reading the previous thread. I tried all the above and ended up just offering anoles and the female ate so for now I will run with that. The male was interested but I think the anole was just too big.
At this point feeding anoles to keep my snakes healthy rather than letting it come down to force feeding seem the best option to me. I will wean them onto pinks in time but if they never warm up to it they will continue to get anoles. From all I have read and been told they will eat pinks so I’m not worried just don’t want to let my snakes go until force feeding is the best option when I can get them to eat now.
I also lowered my temps as Petra suggested. They were similar to the above mentioned. The basking spot is the same. The snakes stay on the opposite side of the cage never goes near the heat. This is just my experiences and observation. I will also add my first pair so I’m learning as well.
Good luck
Eric G.
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