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a new topic....breeding prep
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by fizzbob7 on January 13, 2003
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do timbers have to go through brumation to be able to breed(both male and female) and is there a site or some info on here i missed that goes into detail on everything from temp to daylight needed, etc.....
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RE: a new topic....breeding prep
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by PIGMAN on January 14, 2003
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Burmation for timbers is important. I wouldnt say you have to hibernate to succesfully breed because many people have breed them without hibernating but it does seem to help with courting behaviors. The drop in temperature and going dormant increases the sperm count in males and may aid in ovulation timeing with females. For your snake to behave and breed most naturally I would suggest a couple of months burmation/hibernation 48-50 degress. In my lab I hibernate from late November to late February or early March some breeding occurs in the spring but true mate searching and courting takes place in late July-mid Sept. Then they usually give birth the following year in late July to early October. Most of my female horridus are on a two to three year birthing scheduall only giving birth every other year too every three years. It almost takes the following summer for postpartum females to restore their fat reserves to be ready to breed the following year. So this shows that horridus have slow parturation making them vunerable to decline in fragmented areas especially if people are collecting adults from den sights. Horridus is much slower in their reproductive rates than alot of rattlers like my atrox which breed yearly and mate like rabbits.
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RE: a new topic....breeding prep
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by fizzbob7 on January 14, 2003
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see...that's something i feel completely uncomfortable with, brumation....i dont have an easy way to drop the temps yet and do it accurately....thats what i need help with...hopefully by this summer i will have a room i can control independantly....
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RE: a new topic....breeding prep
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by PIGMAN on January 15, 2003
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If you have a basement that is unheated that will work great. Or if you have a garage that will most likley work aslong as it doesnt get to cold but a small space heater may keep it warm enough. canebreaks and timbers can tolerate the cold fairly well even short periods of time below freezing. This years ice storm knocked out my power for a few days and untill I heated my snake house with a kerosen heater it droped to 35 degrees and didn't hurt any of the snakes in the building. I wouldnt suggest keeping snakes that cold for long periods of time though. It was only that cold for about 3 hours untill the kerosen heater warmed it back up to 48. I wouldn't use kerosen that much from what some people have told me with the fumes but I personally haven't had a problem with it . Before I had a building built for snakes I burmated mine in a closet by cutting a whole in the wall and removing the insulation on an outside wall and that will generally allow the closed off closet to be cool enough for burmation. If this works keep a close eye on temperature if it exceeds 60 degrees often then it is not goig to work well for burmation the snake simply will not go dormant and will use up their fat reserves but not have the desire to eat. If it stays 60 and below I would say go for it. Also make sure you have plenty of humidity. Heating homes in the winter often makes for misserably dry conditions compared to that of under ground where humidity is almost always atleast 60 percent or greater. I hope some of this mumbo jumbo may work for ya.
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RE: a new topic....breeding prep
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by fizzbob7 on January 15, 2003
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yeah....it gave me some good ideas...hopefully i can just get a seperately controlled room....
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