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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by FSB on February 25, 2010
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Rob C. and Randal - thanks for that info. I'll definitely look into Quatricide. Unfortunately, since it's cheap, bleach is the disinfectant of choice at work. I really don't like it but my supe is like the high priest of bleach. We practically bathe in it, and even though the solution is about 3% - 5% I'm still uncomfortable with it, especially when used for water bowls. I have always used it sparingly and carefully avoided any direct contact with it and my animals. When I lived next-door to my brother's vet clinic I had an abundant supply of chlorhexiderm and betadine. Hopefully, if Quatricide is cost-effective, I can talk them into using it, but it can be very difficult to get old dogs to change their ways.
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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by venomrob on February 25, 2010
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Just to clarify....I used the 50% bleach solution to clean the cage for any mites and hopefully kill any eggs in there. I DO NOT USE IT REGULARLY. I just wanted to say this for the record. FOR cleaning I use 409 antibacterial and then wipe the cage down a couple times with a damp cloth.
Rob
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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by FSB on February 28, 2010
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Thanks again Randal, and sorry V-Rob, didn't mean to stray off topic but I'm always interested in finding safe, effective disinfectants. As far as oiling the burm and disinfecting the cage, you did the right thing. Olive oil is safe and effective at killing mites on the snake, but doesn't do anything for the eggs, larvae or deuteronymphs that may be in the environment. Only adult mites and protonymphs actually feed on the snake. As Rob C. pointed out, mites can be vectors of other pathogens in a collection, but a few mites aren't going to kill your snake in and of themselves. Mites do, and rightly so, cause a great deal of consternation among keepers. Like head lice, they carry the stigma of poor hygiene and uncleanliness and nobody wants them around. Unfortunately, over-zealous attempts to eradicate mites can often do more actual damage to the snakes themselves than the mites themselves. A multi-faceted approach is best - gently oiling affected snakes [especially on the heads, where most mites escape soaking treatments] and thoroughly cleaning everything in the snake's environment, both in and around the cage, discarding anything that can't be cleaned. You might try treating the environment with a dilute solution of pyrethrin, which is the active ingredient in some over-the-counter lice shampoos such as Equate. I recently heard that a similar product for livestock is offered much cheaper at farm supply stores, but haven't looked into it yet. You can lightly spray the bedding and interior of the cage, just don't get any in the snake's drinking water. Mites seem to prefer some snakes over others. Boas, pythons and various colubrids [especially kingsnakes] must be particularly tasty or otherwise attractive to the pesky critters. Perhaps it has something to do with scalation - in order to feed, the anteior part of the mite must be under a scale. They seem to prefer smooth-scaled over keeled or more rugose snakes.
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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by FSB on February 28, 2010
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[continued - sorry, I maxed out my text box]. A search of the threads here will turn up a great deal of more mite information, and I also suggest reading the chapter on Acariasis in Mader's Reptile Medicine and Surgery. I have never had much of a problem with them in my own collection, but in the cases I saw at my brother's vet clinic and at the zoo, I seem to have noticed that boas and pythons are much more at risk than venomous species. Has anyone else noticed this? Of course, it could be that venomous keepers are typically and by definition more experienced and practice a higher level of husbandry and sanitation than casual pet-python owners. I have noticed that just about every python or boa we have accepted at the zoo shows up with mites, but have yet to see any on venomous snakes, even from confiscations. Infestations seem particularly less likely, as noted above, in snakes with strongly keeled scales. Again, this is just my own observation, and I'd be interested in knowing if anyone else has noted this. Mites tend to follow a very narrow, stylized range of behaviors and movements that can easily be affected by objects in their environment, so I wonder if keels could possibly play a role in confusing and impeding mites? I really hate these little arachnids - they give me the blue creevils - and I'm interested in finding better and easier ways to deal with them. I feel that an answer lies in targeting specific stages of their life cycle - egg, larva, protonymph, deutonymph or adult.
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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by venomrob on February 28, 2010
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The reasoning I used 50% bleach in his caging was for the eggs hoping that would kill them. After showing him the oil rub down and the cleaning he's gonna do it every two weeks a couple times.
I do agree with the mites on venomous your are talking about. I keep crotalus and naja species and havent seen mites on any of them. I still do preventive cleaning every two months but the past couple years Ive been starting to think I dont need to for the vens. That might sound bad to some people but never had a problem with them. Ive never had mites on any of my pythons except for ones I have brought in as rescues you could say because people get these reptiles on a whim and know NOTHING about them. Not to talk bad about my buddy but thats how he ended up with one.
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RE: mites and r.i.'s
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by agkistrodude on February 28, 2010
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Clorox puts out a product called "Clorox Clean Up Cleaner" with bleach. The ingredients say that it contains 1.84% bleach.I use it all the time, it does a great job.Or you can mix your own. Take care, Marty
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