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Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by Venomjunkie on December 12, 2012
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Hey guys,
I just had a question regarding the use of Flexwatt with a rheostat. I use Animal Plastics cages for the majority of my snakes and they are heated with Flexwatt. I like the idea of a rheostat better than a thermostat because then I don't have to worry about placing a probe and whatnot. Anyway, I tried the Repti-Temp rheostat from Zoo Med and even on its lowest setting it allows the heat tape to get up to around 100 degrees which is obviously hotter than most snakes require. I think that I read once that this is possibly because the heat tape is not a high enough wattage for the rheostat to properly control but I am not sure about that. Does anyone know if this could be indeed be the case and if so is there another rheostat/dimmer for lower wattages out there that I could use? Thanks in advance for any input.
Dylan
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RE: Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by LarryDFishel on December 13, 2012
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You could try cutting your heat tape into two sections and wiring them in series. That would double the resistance (half the current) in a simple circuit, but I don't know enough about how rheostats works to be sure it would do the trick.
On the other hand, measuring the temperature of the heat tape itself is almost irrelevant (unless you're putting it inside the cage, which you shouldn't) You need to measure the temperature of the inside, bottom surface of the cage. If it doesn't seem too hot, then you need to measure it again with the snake coiled up in the cage (preferably with a probe between the snake and the bottom).
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RE: Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by canyonerro on December 14, 2012
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The Repti-Temp rheostat from Zoo Med is a piece of junk. Buy a dimmer switch(rheostat) from a hardware store. You will have to do some simple wiring, but it shouldn't give you any problems as long as you purchase a decent quality dimmer switch.
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RE: Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by Venomjunkie on December 16, 2012
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Larry, I guess I worded that oddly but I meant that the temperature of the bottom of the cage gets to around 100 degrees. I appreciate the advice on the dimmer switch though and maybe I'll look into that. It would just be nice not to have to worry about a probe.
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RE: Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by Time on December 16, 2012
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I rather worry about installing a probe than a temperature spike or meltdown.
I use the AP cages that have a probe cavity built in.
For other cages or racks, I take an old tub and cut off a piece to mount the thermostat probe to it with aluminum tape. I fasten this to the shelf over the flexwatt to get an accurate temp reading.
I used to use dimmers but had meltdown which a thermostat would have prevented.
Taking short cuts can quite often be the cause of a disaster.
I use Johnson Control thermostats on all of my racks, exhaust fan, Ac units, and back-up electric oil heaters.
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RE: Problem with Flexwatt and Rheostat
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by Venomjunkie on December 18, 2012
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I had completely forgotten that the AP cages came with a built in probe slot. I have a few older models that I am sure have it when AP used heat cable as their UTH source but I have not checked the newer models that use Flexwatt as a UTH source. I'll have to look into that. Do you know if it is possible to request that the new cages have the slot put in if it is not normally included? I have a couple of cages on order right now that I would like to get that option on if possible.
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