|
1-3 of 3 messages
|
Page 1 of 1
|
|
REGURGE -- VET ADVICE NEEDED
|
Reply
|
|
Anonymous post on December 22, 2003
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
I recently aquired a young Timber. I fed her a mouse and two days later she puked. I soaked her in Nitrofurazone [cannot be sure how much, if any, she drank]. I fed her again and this time she puked the very next day.
I "tube fed" her a Nystatin/Flagyl mixure that I usually use on Reds and Sidewinders that puke or show other signs of fungal problems, etc. I don't know if this is going to work and have no way to get cultures, etc. done right now. Any ideas folks? HELP!
|
| |
|
RE: REGURGE -- VET ADVICE NEEDED
|
Reply
|
|
Anonymous post on December 22, 2003
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
|
Not really sure....only thing I can think of is that Flagyl is a two dose thing, typically 14 days or so apart. 14days is for Metronidazole, and they are pretty much the same, but Im not 100% sure on flagyl.
|
| |
|
RE: REGURGE -- VET ADVICE NEEDED
|
Reply
|
|
by TomT on December 25, 2003
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
Snakes regurgitate their food for several reasons... not just because they've got some viral or bacterial infection. I'd be VERY careful when giving unknown quantities of antibacterial medication(s) to snakes....
The primary cause (in my opinion) of regurgitation in reptiles is temperature-related. Feeding a snake a meal and then not providing access to adequate basking temperatures will often lead to regurgitation. Feeding a meal that is too large (also temperature related) will often lead to the meal ending up as a putrified glob of stinking and rotting flesh, that will end up on the cage floor as a regurgitation instead of a pile of poo, because the snake can't handle the mass of the meal. Try leaving the snake alone for 7-10 days to allow the esophagus to heal (stomach acids are strong in snakes and an irritated "throat" can contribute to the regurgitation problem), then offer a tiny meal... fuzzie or pinky mouse, to get the snake back on track with keeping the food item down. LAY OFF the meds unless you have performed testing to identify pathogens in the digestive tract, and then provide (most critical) a temperature GRADIENT inside the enclosure. Cool on one end (70-75 degrees) with a warm place (90-95 degrees) that the snake can access to help digest food...
All this talk about whether or not venom aids in digestion is moot if the animal doesn't have access to heat to get the job done.... nothing worse than a puker in your collection to drive you wild.... Localized "basking" heat can be provided in two simple ways. A "spot" light on a thermostat to ensure "spot" heat that doesn't overheat the entire enclosure (too much heat will make the snake puke FASTER than too little), or if you have a glass bottom to the enclosure, you can use a "human" style heating pad (available at Walmart for 10$ or so) placed under the glass and set on low. Either route you take will be used in the same way by the snake. It will lay on the heat to absorbe heat through the belly to heat the meal and to allow it to digest....
That's about it........
Merry Christmas!
TT
|
| |
|
Email Subscription
You are not subscribed to this topic.
Subscribe!
My Subscriptions
Subscriptions Help
Check our help page for help using
, or send questions, comments, or suggestions to the
Manager.
|
