A Field Herping Checklist
from
York Morgan
on
August 15, 2000
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Originally published in the SHHS Spring 2000 Newsletter.
Finally, spring is here and it's time for the best herping trip of the year! For more than 12 consecutive years, I have made at least one big excursion through the Southeast in search of reptiles and amphibians. Always, I am accompanied by fellow outdoorsmen (like Derek and Wyeth Morgan, David Pearce, Mike Queen, and Sterling Whitley - all of whom are SHHS members) who are as excited as I am to leave town and get into the backcountry. Our journeys begin in North Carolina and wind through South Carolina, Georgia, and Northern Florida. Along the way, we employ many methods for seeing herps; like road-cruising, hiking through scrub oak and pine forest, peering down Gopher tortoise holes and hollowed stumps, and canoeing through the Okeefenokee Swamp. However, our best success at this time of year seems to come from the tried and true method of flipping boards, tin, and other debris.
While preparing for another big adventure this spring, I realized that the list of things to remember seems to get longer each year. Every year, a new useful "toy" is introduced by one of my fellow herpers. The following checklist may prove useful for other people who enjoy spring herping in the southeast. It includes obvious, as well as more obscure items that our group of herpers (with more than 100 collective years of experience in the field) uses regularly.
Snake stick - We have tried many types of hooks over the years, from modified golf clubs to iron bars to professional hooks, and we are sure that the best field hook in the world is the Furmont "Stump-ripper". It is lightweight, virtually indestructible, and perfectly designed for flipping trash. The double-shafted model that we use can pry up the heaviest of boards without breaking, although the manufacturer offers no warranty hooks that are broken due to prying.
Briar-resistant pants -Ever fight through a wall of man-eating briars to get to one piece of tin? Carrhart, Wrangler, and other manufacturers of outdoor clothing make pants with plastic coating in the front that effectively resists thorns. The overalls are nice too, but they can be awfully hot. One manufacturer, Cabella's, produces pants that are briar-proof and supposedly "snakebite-proof". Certainly, the Cabella's are snakebite resistant, but none of us are eager to be the guy who tests to see if the pants are truly snakebite-proof.
Sawyer Venom Extractor Kit - They're small, inexpensive, and reasonably effective. Even though we don't often handle venomous snakes in the field, the potential benefit of taking along this device is obvious.
Photocopies of the SHHS Snakebite Treatment Protocols - These protocols, which have been distributed several times by the SHHS, are informative and concise. They can be easily stored in the glove box or with maps. In an emergency, they could save a lot of grief or more.
Camera - Our photographic gear has improved seriously over the years. The typical point and shoot cameras are great for portraits or landscape photography, but they often render out-of-focus photographs in close-up situations, as are necessary with herp photography. Our best photos are taken with cameras that have through-the-lenses focusing. An entire article could be written on the topic of good, affordable field photography.
Mirror - We usually carry small mirrors in our pockets while snake hunting during sunny days. The mirrors, when turned at the correct angle, reflect sunlight that easily enables us to see very deeply into tortoise holes, rodent burrows, and hollowed stumps. Of course, if the sun is at a bad angle or the target is in the shade, a mirror is useless.
Flashlight - We use Petzl headlamps for herping after dark. While road-cruising, headlamps are particularly handy because they keep your hands free. Plus, the sudden, screeching stop that usually ensues the sighting of an animal on the road can cause you to lose any flashlight that is not firmly strapped to your body. Halogen bulbs burn most brightly, but they use batteries very quickly, too. The headlamps that we use have limited effectiveness when peering into rodent holes during the daylight hours…mirrors are actually better under the right conditions.
Q-beam flashlight - These are the big halogen spotlights with over 1,000,000 candle power, that can recharge using your car's cigarette lighter. They are bulky and impractical for carrying on long hikes, but they can be great for looking at road shoulders while cruising at night. Also, if you find a rodent hole that is not visible by mirror or headlamp, the Q-beam will certainly do the trick.
Maps - We learned, after being unable to relocate some of our most productive spots, to bring along maps. We don't often go to the trouble of writing the exact location of each spot we find, but we do make annotations such as "bad road", "good area", "3 EDB", "too wet", etc. A company called COUNTY MAPS produces very detailed and accurate county map books of North Carolina, South Carolina, and Florida. Unfortunately, a county map book for Georgia did not exist the last time I checked. Perhaps one is available through another source.
Field Guides - No matter how much we think we know about the herps of the Southeast, we always seem to find reasons to review our field guides. We often bring the "Audubon Society Field Guide" to reptiles for use as a quick, general reference. However, there are numerous other field guides, for reptiles of the southeast, particularly for Florida, that are more specific.
Field Journal - Admittedly, we are slack when it comes to documenting our finds. A field herper who kept copious notes about locales, temperatures, time of day, etc.; could probably contribute significantly to research on native reptiles. My new "toy" for this year is a durable, water-resistant field journal into which I intend to make more detailed notes than what we have done in the past. If nothing else, this information will be interesting to me when I look back at it 20 years from now.
Bee sting / ant bite medication - People with known allergies should take the appropriate precautions. I have never been hunting in Georgia or South Carolina when I was not bitten at least a couple of times by fire ants. Never! The fire ants have thoroughly invaded all of the sandy soil regions of the Southeast. Additionally, tin-turning is bound to uncover an occasional bee's nest.
Good, comfortable boots - Leather workboots that come up well above the ankle provide increased protection from venomous snake bite as well as from the multitude of briars that inevitably make their way into your socks. Boots with steel shanks prevent painful, rusty nails in the feet. Of course, comfort is a must while hiking miles every day.
Permits - Know the laws in the area in which you are herping. Some states require permits for collecting or transporting snakes. Honestly, our group is unfamiliar with the exact laws of each state because we keep none of the animals that we see. We do not even bring snake bags on our trips. Law enforcement officers in the Southeast, from my experience, are typically unaware of laws protecting native reptiles. However, that may be changing, and it would be wise for the herper who insists upon collecting wild animals to be in compliance with local and federal laws.
Camping Gear - When we are herping in locations with plenty of camping spots (e.g. Ocala, Croatan and Francis Marion National Forests) we often take advantage of the chance to sleep outdoors. However, we have found that it is usually easier to get a cheap motel when we are flipping tin. After a hard day of digging through debris, it is nice to be able to rid yourself of ticks, ants, and poison ivy oil before going to bed. Plus, we have found that even a minimal effort to maintain a semblance of personal hygiene often increases the likelihood that farmers will grant us permission to herp on their land.
Miscellaneous items that are necessary or at least handy: Extra food and beverage to avoid trips to town. Toilet paper. Insect repellent. A Leatherman or other multifunctional tool. Work gloves. A compass for long hikes. A spare tire and working jack for your vehicle. A credit card for unexpected emergency expenses. A copy of your insurance card. Extra camera film. Extra batteries. An extra snake hook in case you lose or break yours. Duct tape - if you bring it, you'll find a use for it! Lysol Air Freshener - a must while cooped up in a car with my friends!
Let's face it, all we really need in order to have some fun while looking for herps, is free time and the desire. I have roughed it many times with little or none of the above items. The most important thing is to get outside while it is springtime and enjoy yourself. Still, for trips that last several days or more, many of the above items are necessities. Each excursion it unique, with a unique set of needs. As for my upcoming Southeastern herp getaway, I can't wait!
York Morgan is a 33 year old Environmental Remediation Project Manager who currently lives in Virginia. Although he maintains a collection of captive animals, his primary interest is observing reptiles in the wild.
feild collecting equipment
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by preacher on August 24, 2000
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i read the list of equipment one should carry in the feild and i have a few other sugestions for my 2cents worth.one thing i have found to work realy well for me is a light weight fly fishing vest,you can carry all kind of things in one in individual pockets close at hand,i also carry a waist pack with a watter bottle holster(hydrate or die)<L>one thing i like to have is survey flagging so if i have to leave a bagged snake,i can hide it and still know where i put it.petzl lights are great,but i have found the light to end all lights,i use the night rider digital head trip,it has multi level brightness and will last from 1 1/2 hr. to over 4 hr. depending on watage used and the ni.hird. battery is rechargeable and is the size of a sawer kit and man is it ever bright!just the thing for cotton mouth collecting in some dark swamp.in adition to filson tin cloth briar pants,i wear gokey upland boots custom made for me in 16" hight,these aint for every one but i have feet damaged in a fall some time back and gokey custom makes the boot to fit your individual foot.they are way comfotable after a long day of hunting,somthing i cant get in store broght boots.i have not used the stump ripper but after i have heard the reports i will be getting one.i love feild herping even if most of the time its catch,photograph and relese,i think this is an excelent web site,the preacher
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A Field Herping Checklist
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by YORK on October 30, 2000
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Hi Preacher. Where can I find the night rider light that you referred to? It sounds like a good one. Also, the fishing vest is a good idea. Thanks.
York Morgan
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A Field Herping Checklist
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by 2-step on January 29, 2001
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to york,or any one else interested.
sorry i havent got back since october,but regardin the NIGHT RIDER DIGITAL HEAD TRIP head lamp,you can find them at most good bike shops,check out niterider.com. again,i find this to be an excelent head light
regards,2-step
(aka preacher)
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A Field Herping Checklist
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by ReptileHobbyist on October 9, 2001
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A tire air pump in case I have to deflate my tires in loose sand to get unstuck. A shovel if you really get stuck. On desert trips I always carry at least 3 gallons of drinking water. Extra Water in case your or someone else’s vehicle overheats. Plenty of non perishable food, (Canned food is great as long as you remember to bring a can-opener).
A check off sheet that has a section for species found, location, date, time, moon phase, weather, temperature, overall length, tail length, and sex.
Plenty of pillowcases, a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a sturdy lid for hot snakes, homemade snake hooks made from golf clubs and snake clamps, sexing probes, tape measure, digital thermometer that measures ground temperature and ambient air temperature. A portable spotlight, a maglight, extra batteries, the Extractor Snake Bite Kit, and a valid California State Fishing License are always in my truck.
I also carry a compass, as well as, Road and topo maps. A camera to take lots of pictures, because it's always nice to be able to look back through your field data and photos and remember your experiences. Feel free to use this list of things to help prepare yourself. Good luck and good Herping!
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A Field Herping Checklist
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by fuzzybutt on May 9, 2003
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I am a research assistant with Southern California Wildlife which is headed up by John Taylor. We are starting a field study on Crotalus Ruber Ruber. I am putting togeather my first field bag. I am new to the world of venomus snakes and would love to add the SHHS Snakebite Treatment Protocols to my pack. How do I come across these. I have been searching your site and can not find them.
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RE: A Field Herping Checklist
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by YORK on May 12, 2003
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Unfortunately, the SHHS snakebite treatment protocols cannot be published on our website due to liability concerns. Luckily, however, there are plenty of similar protocols available online.
According to the SHHS President, www.eMedicine.com has an outstanding treatment protocol that is printable. Simply register a login name, then enter "rattlesnake" into the search engine and you should be able to access excellent, free information.
Good luck with your ruber study - sounds like lots of fun.
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by Rugha on October 7, 2003
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I am curious as to how you guys map out your herping excursions in other states? Do you just ride and try and find places, or do you know where you are going to look?
I have always loved reptiles and have started a small collection. Recently started going herping here in VA with a good buddy and we love it dearly. Road cruising at night is a rush, no doubt. Would love to correspond with others to get ideas about where we could go in search of other species, like in the Carolina's, etc.
Thanks,
WJ
wjl@gcronline.com
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RE: A Field Herping Checklist
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Anonymous post on June 5, 2004
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ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE NEW TO HERPING, PLEASE READ THIS: I'm a little concerned about something on the list, particularly because so many new to the herping world are taking this list as definitive. Perhaps I am missing something here, but I thought extractor kits were deemed not only ineffective, but detremental in that they actually cause the venom to spread faster. I believe it was Dr. Sean Bush from Loma Linda Unviersity Hospital who explained this well in various venues.
As I understand it, the protocol for dealing with venomous snake bites/bites where the kind of snake is unknown is:
-keep yourself calm (most important because it keeps your heart rate down; a slower heart rate = slower envenomation progression) & get medical attention right away .
-identify the snake or remember particular physical features of it. But don't kill it because you can get bit again, not to mention, nerves can cause it to bite up to an hour and a half after it is killed/decapitated.
-do not cut the wound open (this serves no purpose other than to increase risk of infection to your blood stream and bite area, not to mention it will likely freak you out),
-do not suck the wound or use extractor kits, do not use other pressure devices, and do not squeeze the wound in an attempt to force the venom out (you inflame the area which increases blood flow, increasing the spread of venom),
-do not use a tourniquet (aside from the fact it is usually not necessary, it can also inflame the area or affect blood flow/venom progression. And because it is visibly indicative of the severity of the circumstances, it is a psychological stressor that can increase adrenaline, which increases the rate of progression of envenomation. Although the truth is the truth, it is not horrible if a person allows the bite to become surreal while going to get help if having it be surreal keeps them calmer.)
-And whether you are new or well seasoned, remember: there is no room for shame, embarrassment, or ego if you've been bit and your life is at stake. Get yourself help and learn from it, appreciate it if possible, and move on.
IF the snake that bit you is a known non-venomous snake, wash where you were bit with antibacterial soap, and be sure to note if you begin to experience an allergic reaction/anaphylaxic shock. If you do, get medical help, and if posible without delaying getting medical help (meaning if you have it and can grab it on your way out the door) give yourself Benadryll, or in the case of anaphylaxic shock, a shot from an anaphylaxic shock injection kit.
your local poison control center can also help you find the best way to get help, namely a hsopital that can treat you the fastest. Please consider keeping their number in your wallet for just in case.
safety is your key to fun!
Anonymous
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A Field Herping Checklist
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by Scott7590 on August 14, 2005
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A cell phone is a good gadget to have on hand, but make sure you have a tower nearby if you need to make a call.
Also, make sure you have a map to show you the way out and, if neccesary, to show someone else the way in.
A clock and/or a watch is a given. If someone is bitten, the last thing he/she needs to do it trek two miles or so to civilization.
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RE: A Field Herping Checklist
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by Darthsandy on November 12, 2005
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I would add a couple of things to that list. A GPS unit, for obvious reasons; makes location site logging easier, and is as useful as a compass in most situations. The idea of a fly fishing vest is great! I would modify that by suggesting a chest pack, like a vest, but it has lanyards for equipment, and pockets for stuff that shouldn't or wouldn't do any good on a lanyard. It's as easy to get out of as a vest, and not nearly as hot to wear. Also I would suggest a folding pocket knife, with a 3 or 4 inch blade. Small enough to carry, large enough to be useful, and great for creating impromptu tools, if needed.
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RE: A Field Herping Checklist
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by Crevalle on May 1, 2011
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Thanks for the herping list. Do you plan on adding links as to where to purchase the equipment you've used? Thanks.
Here's my herping website in case you're interested...
http://www.reptilerevolution.com
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