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Latest rattler husbandry information?
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by snakum on June 16, 2003
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I've been away from the hobby for a few years now, and will begin rebuilding a rattlesnake collection by buying a few things at the Bristol show. I'll be keeping c. viridis, c. molossus, or massasaugas this time, and so I am curious about their care, as opposed to the horridus (my former colection).
When buying Canebrakes, I always checked a new snake for mouth rot, mites and ticks, any open sores or bumps that might indicate hernias or tumors. Once home, the new snake got an hour long luke-warm soak and a new cage lightly dusted with Sevin Dust, and a stool sample to a vet ASIP (as soon as it pooped).
In the Spring thru Fall the cages were kept at 70-75 degrees with a small hot-spot under the light at 80-85 but only during the day (lights out at night). I used a heating pad with a rheostat between the plywood bottom and the outdoor 'grass' carpeting (aluminum foil taped to each side of substrate and plywood floor to insulate materials from heat source). I only fed once every ten days and I also misted once per week inside the cage.
In the Winter the cages go down 10-15 degrees and feeding was only monthly, if they'd eat at all (I tried to simulate hibernation for breeding, and it worked ... at least once), and I did not mist inside in Winter.
How should any of this be done differently for the Western species I'm now forced to keep due to the new NC laws? I realize I will change the temps based on the specific species I buy in Bristol, but speaking generally, should anything else be done differently with the viridis, molossus species, or in light of things you guys have learned since I've been away? Any recent insights into rattler husbandry I should consider?
Thanks all!
Phil Minh Thong Holbrook
Greensboro, NC
plh34@aol.com
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