|
1-6 of 6 messages
|
Page 1 of 1
|
|
hungry hungry Ball Python
|
Reply
|
|
by trediggy on June 26, 2008
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
|
as most of you know and are thinking why does this ball python rookie keep asking questions on a venomous reptile site? its because i always get the best advice here lol. anyways i got my bp sat. 21 and i have yet to offer her food. i think i'll try frozen mice. is there a way to tell if shes ready to eat? i know you suppose to give them space ,i just dont want to neglect her eating dinner.
|
| |
|
RE: hungry hungry Ball Python
|
Reply
|
|
by earthguy on June 27, 2008
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
Trey,
It's easy to offer her F/T mice. I would probably start with a smaller mouse just to get her started (and NEVER offer her anything thicker than her girth). Thaw out the mouse then warm it above room temperature with warm water (not too hot). You'll know if she's ready to eat. Watch for body language such as increased motion aroud the cage, increased tongue flicking, and increased attentiveness to motion. If she seems interested then get her attention and drop the mouse infront of her and leave her for a few minutes. If she doesn't take the mouse after that, but still seems interested, you can wiggle the mouse in front of her to see if you can induce a strike (preferably with a good pair of hemostats - python teeth are SHARP).
Is she cbb or wc? Most cbb balls are easy to feed. Most WC (that I have dealt with) are finiky. Let us know how it works out.
|
| |
|
RE: hungry hungry Ball Python
|
Reply
|
|
by FSB on July 1, 2008
|
Mail this to a friend!
|
|
You just got the snake on June 21st? Patience is the key. Try to avoid the Jewish mother thing - it just doesn't apply to snakes. Ball pythons are very shy and can take some time to acclimate, and waving food in front of it can actually stress the snake out and even make it less inclined to eat. At worst, it may become afraid of food. The best thing is to leave it alone as long as possible in a very quiet place. Keep it warm and provide a ceramic or glass bowl of fresh water large enough to soak in if it wants, and just let it be. Darkness helps too - bright light stresses them out. Provide a secure hide. An overturned flower pot with an enlarged hole in the bottom works well (make sure the edges of the hole are smooth). Do not handle it until it starts to feed and is fully acclimated. Snakes are set on a very slow speed, and humans tend towards impatience, which isn't a good mix. Aspen is a good choice of bedding - some keepers maintain that it can help stimulate appetite, and snakes like to burrow in it. The large-cut Kay-tee brand (available at Pet Smart, etc.) is best since it isn't as easy to ingest as the finer cut. Give the snake a week or even two - it isn't going to starve to death. Then try, in low light at night, offering a freshly killed live rodent. (Take it by the tail and give it a swift sharp whack on the edge of a table... that's what those tails are for, you know). Name the mouse after someone you don't like (it's great anger management) and offer the mouse while it's still warm. Move very slowly and gently and keep other people away. Dangle the mouse in front of the snakes nose at first - you might have to wait some time, so again, be patient. Let the snake smell and taste the mouse with its tongue. After a while, you might gently bump the mouse against the snake's nose. If it still doesn't take it, lay the dead mouse down and leave the room dark for a while. Check back after an hour or so to see if it has eaten. If the snake is in its hide, drop the mouse in with it and leave it overnight. If the mouse is still there in the morning, remove it and feed it to your snapping turtle (everyone should have one of these for a garbage disposal). Try, try again. A captive born ball python should take mice with no problem, but back in the 70's I used to get the wild caught ones started on gerbils. Sometimes they'd stay on gerbils, but at least they were eating. After you get it eating fresh-killed mice, it should start taking warmed frozen-thawed mice. Ball pythons have facial pits and are sensitive to the warmth of their food. Make sure the average temperature of the cage is around 80 dgrees F with a gradient from about 78 to 85, even a hot-spot of 90 during the day. I have had some snakes, including wild cottonmouths, go for months without eating and then suddenly start eating like champs, but I have never failed to get a snake to eat. So don't freak out.... PATIENCE!! One more thing.... I have noticed that some ball pythons seem more comfortable in a plastic Sterilite or Rubbermaid container than in a glass aquarium. Get one with some vertical space - I can't stand these low things, and drill a few holes around the top edge (not into the top itself). Under no circumstances leave a live rodent in the cage. I have seen some horrible damage done to ball pythons by rodents.
|
| |
|
Email Subscription
You are not subscribed to this topic.
Subscribe!
My Subscriptions
Subscriptions Help
Check our help page for help using
, or send questions, comments, or suggestions to the
Manager.
|
