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HELP ASAP!
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by Kokopelliman on March 26, 2010
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I have a 57" male Mangrove snake that WILL NOT EAT. So, I have tried everything and he has been tube fed for the entire time, which will not last. He is going to die and I don't want that to happen. I need to speak to someone that has much more experience than I do with dealing w/ WC's. He has been to the vet and has been all panacured up! I'm not sure if it has something to do with Flagellates, but he is extremely lethargic and absolutely refuses to eat. I have heard just about everything so please tell me something new. He is kept in quarantine with humidity 80% and he is TOO skinny. I don't know what else to do. :(
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by puffadder7 on March 26, 2010
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if he has major skin flaps it is prob to late, is his tongue flicking like normal? and have you noticed any neurological problems? the important thing is to keep him hydrated and warm.
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by pictigaster1 on March 26, 2010
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Hydration is not the same as humidity.It has to drink or have water tubed.I have never scene a boiga refuse a baby sparrow.A chick should do live,a mangrove that size could eat a dove.If you have been stuck on feeding rodents you may be to late.Instead of tubeing it ,it can be very bad if you do not know whatyout is doing use a fuzzy mouse or a pink rat every couple of days.Just gently push it doen past the jaw line and let it do the rest.Wet it with raw egg first.If it has been to the vet so much what did the fecals say.fLAGYL is not the all around cure it is safe in propper doses it can cause tumors if over dosed .
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by AquaHerp on March 27, 2010
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Archie is correct: Humidity is not hydration. Granted, high humidity will keep the animal from dehydrating too quickly. Your main issues right now are getting the snake properly hydrated and getting some substance into it. Renal failure is you biggest enemy at this point.
Tubing fluids is one way, although for basket cases I go right to fluids Sub-Q. You'll need to talk to your vet about securing a bag of fluids and some 21 gauge needles. There is a method to doing this, so have your vet show you, if he/she is acquainted with it.
Food can be done a couple of ways. baby food through a catheter or as pointed out, a small mouse or fuzzy every four days. Don't push the snake beyond that as if it is weak it cannot process it quickly.
Keep the animal warm, and ensure there is a large water bowl with fresh water at all times. By fresh, I mean change it daily. Any good herp person can tell you that a fresh vessel of water will usually elicit a snake to drink. (You wouldn't be interested in drinking from a glass of water that has been sitting around for 4 days would you?)
As far as deworming; put that on pause till the snake gains a little strength. Too much metronidizole or fenbendizole can deplete the gut flora and right now the animal needs that flora operational.
Mangroves can be a tough snake to turn around.
DH
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by Kokopelliman on March 27, 2010
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He is in a big rubber maid at the moment. I have a nice big water dish, paper towels soaked in pedialyte/normosol on the bottom and a perch that he usually doesn't get on unless i place him there.There isn't much room to put a hide in it either. He coils up on one side usually(the cool side w/out a heating pad) and NEVER moves. I have tried to use smaller mice, even pinkies when trying to get him to feed. I try to push it further into his mouth and he refuses to swallow it. I tube feed carnivore care every other day. what else can I do? other than this, he looks good despite the fact that he is way too skinny. Should I make it darker or cram a small hide in?
Thanks,
Keegan
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by AquaHerp on March 27, 2010
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The darker the better for these snakes. They prefer the dark and it will help alleviate stress. Watch that you don't keep him too wet, you'll run in to a blister and/or scale rot problem.
Alternative food items would be fresh chicks or other snakes. Although; this is a shy animal so don't expect to see it eat for a while after handling (days).
Keep in mind that this is a tree dweller and thus it is normally quite thin in stature. Females tend to be a little heavier- but even my 7 foot female is no bigger around than my wrist.
Switch off of the carnivore care and move to dead small mice as a manual feed alternative.
Fluids Fluids Fluids! You'll be amazed at what fluids will do for a health compromised animal.
DH
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RE: HELP ASAP!
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by AquaHerp on March 27, 2010
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I keep them all separate except at pairing time. Formerly I kept 1.2 just to play around with breeding ideas. This is three years running on success so I am adding another male to the mix. I am on the lookout for more nice females. The new male is a basket case. Typical mangrove import, severely dehydrated and had a nasty mouth infection. He turned the corner and should make a nice snake.
I have eggs from both females incubating now with the first clutch due in about 12 days.
I have considered really ramping up the colony and focusing on these snakes with perhaps some other Bioga mixed in. Who knows maybe in the future? They are a snake that I have always admired since i was a youngster and vowed I would not only keep ‘em alive but breed them one day.
Besides, the world needs captive young so we can stop taking wild ones and killing them off. They little ones are quite hardy once you get them started.
Here is latest clutch:
http://s681.photobucket.com/albums/vv177/VenomCurator/Bioga/
DH
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