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I'm a "newbie"
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by Lancehead1 on September 14, 2008
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I just wanted to say hi and introduce myself.I'm fairly new to venomous husbandry,although I've been reading and watching for years.I've had many non-venomous snakes over the years, so I'm familiar with basic stuff such as temps, humidity,live vs F/T, substrates,parasites,hide spots,handleing tools, google,upper resp. infections,shedding problems,eye caps, etc.I have a "mentor" who is my Brother-in-law.He lives about 100 miles from me, (NE GA) but we see each other pretty frequently.(he showed me this site)Right now I have a copperhead and 2 western diamondbacks.The copperhead is pretty calm and hooks easilly,I feel comfortable working with it,as far as removing it for cage cleaning and occasional soaking and stuff, but I don't attempt the WDB's without him here.I have no problem admitting I'm out of my league with them.I will carefully throw in a mouse, but thats it. They are really awesome snakes. I love (and respect) their attitudes! Well enough rambling, great site, stay safe, Hank
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by alphadogg on September 14, 2008
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welcome friend hope u stay safe!!! and welcome once again.. also the more u work with your wdb's the better there attitude will be , i am only 16 but i been keeping westerns for about 2 yrs.. (profile says 26 i know) and secludeing them and fear is not the way to go m8.. that will make them way way worse! also always take out of cage when feeding pit vipers! put in another "feeding cage" or even shoe box if they are small enough, i have had my western for about 2 years as i have said i have only been bitten once because i tripped and it struck(it was on the wrist) i was taken down to the hosp to be relived that there was very little venom in the bite! but as i said keep them social, they will get used to you!
--alphadogg
chandler bazzaz
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by ALA_snake33 on September 14, 2008
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Welcome Hank, hope you enjoy the Debates ( Feel Free To Jump In” LOL” ) and Knowledge on the Site.
Be Safe Ya’ll, Happy Herping : Wally
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by theemojohnm on September 14, 2008
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WAIT???!!
Is alphadog suggesting you should handle ANY reptile more than necessary?! They are not puppies kiddo!
I do not buy the "bitten on the wrist story". And what does "relived" mean in regards to snakebite. Do you mean "REVIVED".
You could not have been revived if there was "very little venom" in your wrist.
I do not completely even suspect a dry bite, but as most kids that age I’m sure wil agree, that sure does make one “cool”..
As stated, feel free to join in the "debates". As the one currently starting up.
You got to kind of learn what advice to take, and which to ignore... hint hint... ;)
Welcome and enjoy your stay. DO NOT try to tame your WDB's like you would a puppy dog. You are on the right track. Unless you have a health problem there is no need to remove those animals unless absolutely necessary. Except for offering water or food, which is what your currently doing... so....
Sorry for the rant. There are many friendly, and knowledgeable people here.
I'm sure you will feel right at home..
Take Care.
~John.
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by stopgetinpopped on September 14, 2008
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Hmmmmm... I don't think I agree with any of the advice (in the way they were worded) given in this thread... ie. pro conditioning captive snakes and con of conditioning...
The best advice here so far is to be welcome on this site and feel free to jump into the debates! and of course to be safe!
Cheers!
Terry
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by stopgetinpopped on September 14, 2008
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Hank,
I think it is great that you are respectful enough to know when you are out of your league. That is the single most important aspect of keeping Venomous snakes. Or any other dangerous hobby.
I do believe that captive snakes are best fed within their own cages. Hooking a snake out and then feeding them adds 2 interactions (hooking out and then back in) that are totally unnescessary. This is recommended, by some, to many new keepers to eliminate the association of opening the cage to feeding time. Which certainly can create a very dangerous response from the snake. However, it is not without its merits.
Having 3 interactions ( hooking out, feeding, hooking back) adds many more oportunities for unpleasantness than simply understanding and then dealing with a food response ( one interaction ).
If you are feeding a mouse to your Westerns, one can assume they are of small size. The only thing you need to ever remember when working with venomous snakes is simply "the only way to be bitten is to get close enough to BE bitten"
If you are feeding your Westerns with live or dead prey delivered with forceps of sufficient length and at the appropriate angle for...
1-your snakes size, top or front opening cage and your snakes behavior.
2- have a hook and/or tongs of sufficient length for your snakes size, top or front opening cage and your snakes disposition. (in case of 'freak-out sessions)
3- have an uncluttered place to work the snake if/when it falls on the floor.
4- a good set of shoes
you will have no incidents.
Working with venomous snakes, contrary to what many will have you believe (myself included sometimes) is NOT rocket science. You have a mentor, if he is experienced himself it should take no more than about 5 minutes to understand the -basics- of C. atrox handling skills....
Which amounts to "keeping all body parts out of all mouths at all times"
:)
Glad to have ya!
Cheers!
Terry
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by tj on September 15, 2008
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"Working with venomous snakes, contrary to what many will have you believe (myself included sometimes) is NOT rocket science."
Amen to that, Terry. Welcome, Hank. There are more than enough knowledgable people in here to help you if the need arises, and enough (alphadogg being one of them), that will give you a chuckle with what they spew.
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by Crotalusssp on September 15, 2008
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Hank, Welcome to the site. You sound like you are on a good track with a good mind set. Take care and be safe. Enjoy the site. There are some occasional "disputes" which can be distracting, but there are also some very experienced and friendly individuals who will gladly help and advise you.
Charles
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