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Crotalus Rube
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by Scootertrash on June 30, 2004
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I just aquired a Crotalus Ruber that was wild caught. Do I need to medicate this animal to rid it of internal parasites? Also, I have been keeping hots for sometime but am somewhat unfamiliar with West Coast species. Comparitively speaking, what is the venom toxicity of this snake in comparison to other Crotalus? Any other pointers would be greately appreciated.
Regards
Clayton
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RE: Crotalus Rube
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by thirdangel on June 30, 2004
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Rubers are generally easy to keep if they're kept right.
If it is a desert phase, it probably was caught in Riverside County, CA. (Whitewater Canyon is where many of them come from). In this case, it is from an extremely arid area (average of 18% humidity or less -- most of So. CA. is arid, but the coast is a little moister).
I don't know where you're located, but if you're in the east, the humidity is much higher. It is well to put the reptile in a cage that has real good air flow to help keep it dry --- I have three of these guys now and have kept many over the years and I NEVER put a water bowl in their cage for more than a few hours in the evening once a month!
If you have a room that you can put a dehumidifier in, it is a wise idea, bu I have kept them in Florida without one.
If you bought this animal from a dealer, watch it closely. In higher humnidties, I have found these guys and Sidewinders very susceptable to fungal infections. I usually have observed them "expanding" their throught while exhaling. If this happens, I use a mixture of Nystatin and Flagyl. The Nystatin is an antifungal that is commonly used for "thrush" in babies -- a regular family Dr. of vet will have this on hand. Flagyl is Metronidazole and can be aquired under the trade name of Hexamit at a local fish/pet store (it is used commonly on fish).
Nystatin is very benign -- on an adult ruber, I would use 3cc. Flagyl does not seem to be as toxic to Crotalids as it is to some kingsnakes. For an adult ruber, I would use 75mg. This has always worked as a one time treatment for me. Don't do this "just in case" as it may stress the animal for no reason.
Lastly, these guys tend to be shy when it comes to eating. I usually try dead rats first. (They seem to take off on rats instead of mice for me) I usually feed them in the evening as this is when I have caught them (when I'm in So. Cal.)the most.
I hope this helps you. Enjoy -- they're great snakes!
Carl
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RE: Crotalus Rube
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by Scootertrash on July 1, 2004
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Thanks Carl. To answer your question, I live in San Bernardino County and the snake was caught in Riverside. I live in the desert so the humidity in the cage should be about right. I have been keeping a water bowl in the cage. I don't think he will get a fungus because he doesn't climb into the water bowl. Does that alter the humidity? You mentioned that they are shy eaters, well not this one. I can barely get the mouse into the cage before he has bitten it to kill it. Well, thanks for the help.
Regards
Clayton
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RE: Crotalus Rube
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by thirdangel on July 2, 2004
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Living where you do, you should never have a problem with him! I have some very aggressive eaters here as well!
Fungus will never be a problem for you -- I thought you might be on the east coast -- here it can cause trouble so I never keep water bowls in with them on a regular basis.
Where exactly did you catch him?
I have some great spots out there for those guys.
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RE: Crotalus Rube
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by Scootertrash on July 2, 2004
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I didn't catch him, a friend did but he lives over near Redlands and I assume he caught the little devil over in that area. I have seen Rubers where I live which is near Palm Springs but up the hill in Yucca Valley. It's what we call the high desert. Mostly what I have seen in the low desert (Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley) are Atrox. I think the Rubers live a little higher than sea level. Atleast that is what I have observed. Thank you for your input. If you think of anything else, give me a shout. Also, let me in on some spots for hunting or road cruising.
Thanks
Clayton
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