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RE: ...And...
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by Rob_Carmichael on April 3, 2006
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I was not blessed with a green thumb (scaly thumb, yes, but anything green, no)...so, I rely on hardy species to get me by. Thankfully, I have some staff who are quite adept at serving as arborist/horticulturists in addition to their herpetological responsibilities.
Right now, we are just using good 'ol Pothos. We have them in hanging planters (sturdy), and, in raised areas towards teh back of the cage (planted in cinder block to prevent planters from tipping over). These plants to withstand some abuse from the snake's nightly forrays around the exhibits and our humidity levels have been MUCH better since adding the greenery. There are MANY other great choices out there and you might consult with some folks on this forum about other choices.
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by petra on April 3, 2006
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You may try orchids they are sturdy and like it humid but, you will have to use plant light.
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by MattHarris on April 3, 2006
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I've tried bromeliads(not for acclimating, but simply decoration).....the snakes destroyed them. My larger stenophrys and hybrid, literally crushed the plants. I gave up. If you buy CBB snakes, you really shouldn't need plants. They'll be acclimated.
The only time I've tried to use live plants to acclimate a WC snake(and it was L. muta) it was an excercise in futility. WC can be acclimated, but its a gamble and you're not (LEGALLY) going to find WC bushmasters coming out of Costa Rica.
Rob, I'll email you the ICP contact info. Do you have an IND #? I get it directly from Clodomiro Picado.
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by lanceheads on April 4, 2006
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The Bushmasters I have kept, always ate a room temperature frozen/thawed rat. Sure, they would eat one heated more than rm. temp.,(most pit vipers will) but I never had to heat one up above the ambient temp to get it to accept and eat it.
I kept mine (Bushmasters) at about 81 degree's, and elevated humidity during shed cycles.
Randal Berry
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RE: ...And...
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by AS on April 5, 2006
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I'd like to thank everyone for taking the time to reply to my questions. I would like to take this opportunity to describe my planned setup(obviously I'm still a long way oof of actually obtaining a bushmaster but I like to be prepared) The actual setup will be 100"x 50"x 40" tall, made of 3/8" polypro secured to an aluminium frame with a polycarbonate skeleton on the inside for additional support. The front doors will be swing down 1/4" Lexan. I also like to cut an access hole into the top of the tank. There will be two shift boxes on either side of the tank, and a lockable divider will be able to fit in through the top access point. For heating I plan to use a pro products heat panel set at 80 degrees with an ambient temperature of 68 degrees. However I read in Trutnaus book that ideal values are 17.5 air temp with a 21 degree substrate temp(might be slightly off on those values, don't have the book to hand right now) therefore would a substrate heater be more appropriate, personally I've never liked undertank heaters but what do you guys think? Humidity will be provided by a swamp cooler.
Does anyone have any advice on handling? Normally I would seek out someone with prior experience, but I am not aware of anyone in England keeping these.
With regards to my experience, as well as the species mentioned in my profile I have practical experience handling gaboons, rhino vipers and puffadders.
Thanks, AS
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by Rob_Carmichael on April 5, 2006
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It sounds like you have a great cage/set up in the making. Just a couple of follow up advice tidbits:
1) Temps: I would try to create an ambient gradient that is 68-69 deg F on the cool side and then up it into the low to mid 70's on the warm side with a basking area that reaches 81-82 deg F. (i know we are just talking about a few degrees of discrepency but these snakes tend to be much more aware of subtle changes in their environment). You mentioned having a uniform 68 degree background temp which I think is just a tad bit on the cool side. With the height you are going to have in your cage, make sure you get the right panel. You may find that you have to add a small heat mat on the heated end that is connected to a thermostat to ensure proper thermal gradients (but the nice thing with this species is that you don't have to shoot for warm temps).
2) Feeding: If you can get your bushmaster(s) to accept frozen/thawed w/out heating (as Randal alluded to), that is the way to go. If your bushmaster stubbornly refuses room temp prey, then try heating it up real good. Right now, three of mine will only accept "hot" prey while the other two will woof down anything.
3) Handling: Shift boxes are the best and most effective forms of "handling" you should have to resort to. Most of my bushmasters are very slow and deliberate in their actions and most can be hooked and guided into an external holding container w/out any fuss.....but, if you catch one on the wrong day, they'll give you nightmares for a few nights so just be very, very careful. The key with these animals is to work slowly, deliberately and always be aware of what is going on (that also means make sure you are focused....no drinking, etc.!)
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