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Force feeding alteratives?
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by Vanyul on September 27, 2000
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I am currently having a problem getting one of my LTC C.v.oreganus juveniles to eat. The previous owner had him feeding on thawed prekill. I have offered this as well as live fuzzies. He will eat none of this. In fact he refuses to even strike at anything.
My "mentor" has warned me to force feed an egg coated pinky as a LAST resort only. He says that it could stress the snake enough to possibly kill it. Are there any alternatives to this? He is losing weight and I'm worried about starvation or weakened state leading to repiratory infection, etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Vanyul
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RE: Force feeding alteratives?
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by RYANW on September 28, 2000
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As a last resort, tube feeding the snake via a "pinky pump" or some manner of gruel is another viable option. I would first double check the husbandry of the animal, and make sure all of its needs are being met. Im not very familiar with helleri, but could it be that your snake is readying itself for hibernation? If not, I would take the snake to an exotic vet willing to treat hots. There could be a parasitic issue at the root of the problem.
If you have not force fed a ven before, definitely let someone with a lot of experience do it for you, especially a vet who can pass a gastric tube and perhaps provide you with an appropriate "gruel" to feed.
Hope this helps, feel free to email any other questions, or if you need a reference of a good herp vet in your area.
Ryan
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RE: Force feeding alteratives?
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Anonymous post on September 28, 2000
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try:
a different time of day or night.
live mice
dead mice
thawed mice (sometimes the freezing makes a difference)
brained pinks (split the skull at the forehead and squeeze out a little brain juice)
pull a pinks rostral skin off with a pair of pliers (sometimes works)
lizards
frogs
drop the snake and a dead prey item in a bag, knot it and clip it inside the lip of a trashcan. leave the snake and mouse in it for a couple of days. some snakes love smelly mice.
put the snake and prey in a deli cup together. cover it with a dark green towel (don't ask me why, but I get good results with a green towel, and yes... snakes can see colors)
take the snake for a ride in a secure lockable biteproof escapeproof container (seriously, some breeders say that the agitation of going to a show and returning has stimulated stubborn neonates into feeding.)
gerbils
hamsters
wild mice
rat pups
try teasing a defensive strike then drop the item in front of the animal and LEAVE. stay gone several hours.
take the snake to a different location. I had a kingsnake that refused to eat. I took him to a different building and he started eating again. after a month or so he quit eating. I brought him back home, he started eating... I guess what I'm saying is completely change his surroundings, cage included. (this could have also been the trip that stimulated him ... see above)
If you have to force feed him, get someone who really knows how to TUBE FEED him a mixture of gerbers chicken baby food, pedialyte, a dash of cod liver oil and honey, and some paste type kitten food (preferably chicken or lamb.) you can also add a little ensure brand caloric supplement.
you can also try putting a pinky ham, rump, or head into his mouth and seeing if he starts swallowing on his own. (again, if you haven't done this get someone good to help you)
BE SURE TO HYDRATE THE SNAKE REGULARLY WHILE HE IS NOT EATING -- put him in a rubbermaid trashcan with a couple of inches of water and let him have a swim for about an hour or so every couple of days. snakes can go a long time without food, but dehydration is their worst enemy during these fasts. you can also add a little terramycin (available at feed stores) to one of these soaks. it is an antibiotic powder. I am unsure of the exact recommended dosage but I mix the stuff so that it is the color of light urine.
If you still have trouble email me (chadem@hom.net)
Best of luck to you and your snake :)
Chad
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Feeding Schedules
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by Charper on September 28, 2000
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In Manny Rubio's book, Rattlesnake: Portrait of a Predator, he points out that the longest lived rattlesnake in captivity, a Canebrake, ate only 3 to 4 meals a year. This particular snake lived to the ripe old age of 36.
Sometimes I think we worry too much about making snakes look fat. Give it time, it will eat eventually. Just make sure that you have done everything possible to reduce "cage stress".
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RE: Feeding Schedules
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by Snakeman1982 on January 11, 2001
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I heard about some snake breeders who were having problems getting their snakes to eat. As a last resort they dipped the rats or mice in raw chicken broth in a can. Chicken noodle soup or something would do I am sure. But that apparently did the trick. The snake smelled the strong smell of chicken broth and attacked the rat. Pretty amazing I thought and few would think of opening up a can of chicken broth but apparently it works great.
If you try my suggestion and it works, please e-mail me. I would love to hear how your snake is doing.
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