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Should hobbyists ever free handle venomous reptiles with their hands?
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Most venomous/toxic Naja species in the world? I have read that the Philippine cobra is the most venomous (mice, 0.2 mg/kg SC with the lowest reported value being 0.14 mg/kg SC) (Brown, 1973). I have recently, come across something in the Indian Journal of Experimental Biology (Vol. 30, (issue 12), pages: 1158-1162, 1992) which stated that the LD50 for Naja oxiana was the most toxic/venomous (mice, 0.18 mg/kg SC and lowest reported value was 0.10 mg/kg). Along with that, the mortality rate for untreated Naja oxiana bites are the highest among all Naja species (70-80%). N.oxiana also produced the lowest known lethal dose (LCLo) of 0.005 mg/kg, the lowest among all cobra species ever recorded, derived from an individual case of poisoning by intracerebroventricular injection.
Following N. oxiana and N. philippinensis are N. melanoleuca at 0.225 mg/kg SC and then N. samarensis at 0.23 mg/kg. The water cobras (N. annulata and N. christyi also have very toxic venoms, but no SC values are listed. Only intraperitoneal (IP) values of 0.143 mg/kg for N. annulata and 0.12 mg/kg for N. christyi. IP values tend to be generally lower (more toxic than subcutaneous values, so it would be unfair to compare their IP results to the subcutaneous (SC) results of other Naja species. Then I have heard that (without solid evidence) that Naja nivea is the most venomous, although their murine SC LD50 range anywhere from 0.4 mg/kg (Toxicon, Vol. 5, issue 1, page 47, 1967) to 0.72 mg/kg (Australian venoms and toxins Databse).
So which is the most venomous? To me it seems obvious that it is the Caspian or Oxus cobra (Naja oxiana), followed by the Philippine cobra (Naja philippinensis). What do you think or know?
I've noticed that the Australian venom and toxin Database seems to have higher LD50 values for all snakes across the board. For example, for the black mamba IP value of 0.01 mg/kg is listed (http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/004101018890219X) and Ernst and Zug et al 1996, list a SC value of 0.05 mg/kg for the black mamba. While the Australian venom and toxin Database listed much less toxic LD50's. So there seems to be a lot of variation.
2014-01-23
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2013-11-13
Deadliest Bite?
2013-09-16
IF the science of self-immunization for a snake envenomation was proven/perfected what is the least benefit(percentage) you would accept before practicing it on yourself?
2013-06-06
how did you learn to keep venomous reptiles?
2013-03-02
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What type of enclosure do you find to be safest for keeping hots? (assuming either the cage is lockable, or is in a locked room)
  Posted: Aug 01, 2007
  (103 votes, 13 comments)
by DocJosh
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Survey Results
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Sliding glass fronts
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53% (55)
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Opening on top
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24% (25)
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Front swings upward
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0% (0)
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Front swings downward
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8% (8)
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Front swings sideways
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7% (7)
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Rack system
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6% (6)
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Other...please specify
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2% (2)
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Survey Comments
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enclosures
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I have to agree with amercnwmn that it does depend upon the species of snake. I should have noted in my previous comment that I work almost exclusively with vipers, which are typically less-active and much less of an escape-risk than elapids. Elapids are best-handled with shift-boxes, and should really be kept only in the most secure, professional-quality enclosures possible. An escaped rattlesnake usually won't go very far and is easily recaptured (the cage should always be in a secure room). An escaped cobra is a BIG problem for everybody.
Posted by
FSB
on October 7, 2007
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I think it often depends on the snake you are keeping in the cage.
Personally, I'm not a screen top fan. I know lots of people who successfully keep small vipers in screen top tanks, but it's just not for me. I've got kids, and I prefer something more secure and locking.
I like side-opening or sliding glass.
Posted by
amercnwmn
on August 23, 2007
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Top-Opening
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I always like to be above the snake, either when I'm in the field or working with captives. A front-opening cage at eye-level spooks me since the snake is on the same level as your face, and the movement of your arms is much more restricted. The hairiest situaions are when you are trying to capture a snake in a tree or on a rock ledge at shoulder-height, or higher. I like a top-opening cage, on the ground, so that my feet and legs are protected by the sides of the cage and I have a full view of the snake from above. Most snakes don't strike (or even seem to think) upwards -- they are more concerned with -- and more dangerous towards -- what's in front of them. I also like to work with snakes as close to the ground as possible because if one of them slides off a hook there is less chance of it being injured. I think it highly improbable that a Gaboon viper would be able to "bust through" a secure, metal screen. Such an action would be far more likely to do damage to the snake's rostral area than to the screen. I rarely have problems or close calls with venomous snakes, because I try to do what I have to do very quietly, smoothly and slowly, so as not to alarm or disturb them in the first place. It's a real test of patience to spot-clean a terciopelo cage without disturbing the snake, but it can be done! Just keep the part of the cage over the snake covered, or he'll come out like a rocket.
Posted by
FSB
on August 20, 2007
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I used to only use cages with sliding doors. But I got tired of having to clean out the tracks so you can close them.Now I only have cages with swing open doors and haven't had any problems with them.I like them better, and I feel that they're safer. Marty
Posted by
agkistrodude
on August 17, 2007
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top opening
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I have always liked to be able to carefully drop them in and close the latch.
Posted by
throwd
on August 16, 2007
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Top opening
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I ruled out a few for reasons I would NOT use them for. My thought process is "How easy is it to close the door if the snake is coming right at the opening".
Front flips down - You need an extra hand to hold the door open, not good.
Front flips up - If you're closing the snake up and your hand slips, the door is fully open again
Sliding glass fronts - can be tricky to close if a venomous snake is heading for the opening while you're closing
Front swings sideways - dont have experience with them, dont have a clearly defined problem or compliment on them.
Rack system - many tubs too shallow for my taste
I only keep pigmy rattlers, so top opening Critter Cages work fine for me. They dont investigate the ceiling of their cages, so once I drop them in, I can easily close the top with no issues/worries. This only applies for ME though because I'm comfortable with my system. Others may not like it, and thats fine. Use what works for you best and safest.
Posted by
guttersnacks
on August 15, 2007
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You have made a fine point Alex.
Depends on species to a large extent.
Tom
Posted by
canuck
on August 15, 2007
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It really depends on the species being housed. My experience is limited to Australian elapids, however sliding glass fronted cage for a species such as a coastal taipan or an angry brownsnake would in my opinion would be much more difficult to work around compared to something like a top-opening, or front, sideways swinging enclosure. Some species like death adders are safely housed in racks, which would be unsuitable for other species.
Alex
Posted by
Alexahnder
on August 15, 2007
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Sliding glass front
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I use vision cages and I never found a safer cage. No way out and u just put a lock on the glass door and it's 100% safe even in a earthquake.
Posted by
rafc12003
on August 12, 2007
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Side opening are by far the safest..
The door acts like a shield,
Its quick to close.
dont risk breaking the glass while useing tools to close the sliding glass while the snake tries to come out of the enclosure.
The only downfall it that it takes room to swing open a door...
Tom
Posted by
canuck
on August 11, 2007
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neodesha sliding front
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I've been keeping my hots in neodesha cages since 1989. I love these cages, I only wish I had more.
Posted by
snake82866
on August 7, 2007
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I agree with KingCobraFan, sliding glass fronts are much safer than other cages like screen tops. For example, if you housed a gaboon viper in a screen top cage and if you are always operating on top of the cage, then the viper could easily break through the screen and bite you. That would just be a complete nightmare. For this reason, I would really recomend using sliding glass fronts to house venomous snakes.
Posted by
Gabino
on August 7, 2007
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Sliding glass fronts
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I like them the best for the simple reason that they allow you to stand slightly to the side, with part of the cage front still blocked, when taking out your snake.
Posted by
KingCobraFan
on August 3, 2007
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