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Bushmaster husbandry info
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by AS on April 3, 2006
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I am interested in acquiring a pair of costa rican bushmasters and i was wondering if any one here could offer any insight into their day to day maintenance and provide me with some information on their basic husbandry needs. I have been unable to find any information regarding the general set up required for this species. I understand that these are relatively difficult snakes to maintain and this is not something i am going into blindly, i would just like it if someone with experience could offer some insights to help me with my decision to maintain this species.
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RE: Bushmaster husbandry info
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by Phobos on April 3, 2006
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Please fill in your profile info so we know more about you, then you might get your questions answered.
Thanks,
Al
webteam member
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RE: Bushmaster husbandry info
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by AS on April 3, 2006
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Sorry about that, my profile is now filled out in full. I look forward to hearing your responses.
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RE: Bushmaster husbandry info
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by Rob_Carmichael on April 3, 2006
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Our facility has been working with Lachesis stenophrys for a number of years. There are a number of folks who have successfully kept them long term such as Matt Harris, Dean Ripa, Randal Barry, Earl Turner to name a few. Ironically, depending on who you talk to, you will get conflicting advice. Earl Turner is someone I highly respect and have seen his collection and his track record is second to none. He keeps his bushmasters on a fairly dry substrate of cypress mulch with multiple hide areas and a large water bowl. He rarely mists their cages, HOWEVER, he keeps many aquatics in his herp room (turtles, etc.) and as such, the ambient relative humidity is very high. So, bottom line is that these animals do well on a dry medium but require relatively high ambient humidity levels. We, too, do the same...our substrate is a combination of cypress, forest humus, thick dead leaf layer. I also incorporate a humidity box into our bushmaster's exhibit in addition to a tangle of large dead limbs/tree trunks (the humidity box is a big plastic blanket box with a hole cut in the lid and the box filled with several inches of slightly dampened spaghnum moss - our's spend a lot of time in them). We also use a cool air vaporizer to help boost ambient humidity but not the temperatures; particularly during the cold, dry months of the Midwest (U.S.). Temperatures are another critical factor. Despite coming from tropical climates, the temperatures on the rainforest floor of Panama, Costa Rica, etc. are actually quite cool. This species needs temperatures that range from 69-72 on the cool side to the mid to upper 70's on the warm side (we maintain these temps 24 hours a day although there is a slight decrease at night). We also incorporate a small heated area where temperatures reach 82-84 degrees F. and our bushmasters will, on occasion, seek out these areas but typically seek out the cooler zones of their exhibits (a single animal is kept in dimensions of 8' wide x 3' deep x 4' high). Anything warmer than that will bring on a great deal of stress and eventually death. In my opinion, the key to keeping this species successfully is stress management; they just don't like to be "dinked" with too much. We also maintain our's in relatively low light conditions much like they would encounter in the wild. A diffused fluorescent provides just enough light to make for an attractive display but nothing bright to stress the snakes out. We also provide several large, sturdy, potted plants that help boost humidity levels and increase air quality. In terms of feeding, these are ambush hunters and our's will typically only feed when inside their hide areas with just their noses protruding from the entrances (a sign that they are ready to feed). We typically feed at night after the lights have gone off. Via long tongs, we offer one medium frozen/thawed rat to each adult snake who are usually taken immediately. We have found that they typically only feed when they bite and hold on to a prey item (but that is just our observations). One appropriately sized prey item every three weeks is usually plenty. Since our Lachesis go on seasonal fasts, we will usually bump up the feeding schedule a bit right before and after these self imposed fasts. Much of our feeding regimen is dictated by the snake's behavior so there are no absolutes - but just don't overfeed. Hope this gives you a little info and I am sure others will give you great info here as well (some that will probably conflict with mine but most of us will generally agree on certain basics).
Rob Carmichael, Curator of the Wildlife Discovery Center
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RE: Bushmaster husbandry info
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by AS on April 3, 2006
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Thanks for the reply Rob. One of the concerns I had about bushmasters was the need for low temperatures and a high humidity resulting in respiratory infections. I work with boelens pythons and have experienced problems along these lines. Now I maintain them on a dry substrate (like you suggest with the bushmaster) and soak them on a weekly basis this helps keep them hydrated amd seems to negate the problems caused by a relatively low humidity, however I would be reluctant to do this with a bushmaster due to the potential for stress.
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RE: Bushmaster husbandry info
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by MattHarris on April 3, 2006
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The cool part isn't really the problem when keeping them...I've kept them as low as 62F at times(and they still feed!), but you don't want the substrate to be wet.
The ambient humidity should be high, while maintaining a somewhat dry substrate. Warm and dry works, so long as you increase the humidity/misting in the few days right after the eyes clear up(personal experience and Dean Ripa's advice) and it works, even with problem shedders.
The key to feeding is getting the prey item VERY HOT, if it starts to cool, the snakes tend to ignore it. If its hot, and they drop it, they typically will find it and still may eat it.
MH
PS...also, the Dallas Zoo has the best track record with maintaining Lachesis muta.
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...And...
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by MattHarris on April 3, 2006
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The cost of Costa RIcan polyvalent antiserum has nearly doubled in the past 5 years. Now $60/vial. Still a bargain, compared to Crofab, but not pocket change!
MCH
www.matabuey.com
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RE: ...And...
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by Rob_Carmichael on April 3, 2006
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1) Matt, do you have a good contact for the Costa Rican polyvalent for Lachesis? I have been trying in vain to locate supplies but to no avail (and our current serum will be expiring w/in the next 15 months).
2) That's a very important point about making sure that frozen/thawed prey items are HOT before feeding. All of my stenophrys will refuse any frozen/thawed meal that is at room temperature. I literally have to put the rats in the microwave for 10-12 seconds before they will accept them. They must have very strong loreal pit cues when it comes to triggering feeding responses.
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RE: ...And...
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by AS on April 3, 2006
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Rob, in your first response you mentioned using live plants, could you give me some idea of the plants that you use and how they hold up to being housed with a heavy bodied species like lachesis, thanks.
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